A day at sea

Day at Sea #1, Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Today is our first Day at Sea (DaS) and the atmosphere on board is completely different. Whereas our previous six days have required discipline and punctuality, today’s mantra is ‘no need to rush.’ ‘Good morning, and what are YOU going to see today?’ has been replaced by “No need to rush, hey, hey; we’ve go a whole day at sea!” followed by the flash of universal but unspoken fear “But what are we going to do if we can’t fill the day???”

Priding myself on being both resourceful AND original, I decided to start the day by pressing the one blouse that had been wrinkled in transit. After a quick exploration of parts of the ship I had never seen before, I tried unsuccessfully to push open the door of the passenger laundry. As I peeked timidly around the door I was glared at by countless pairs of exasperated, frustrated eyes snaking their way around the room and assuring me that I wouldn’t be using one of the two ironing boards any time soon. Not such an original plan after all!

So Harry and I sauntered off to enjoy a leisurely breakfast in the ‘Grande Dining Room.’ After all, there was no need today to grab a quick breakfast at the buffet, or just a roll and coffee at Horizons, or even to order room service so that we could nosh and dress at the same time and still be on time for the excursion of the day. We soon discovered that everyone who was NOT socializing in the laundry room was breakfasting in the GDR. Luckily we secured a window table from which we could admire the passing blue-grey water, clouds and sky.

It soon became even more apparent, that unlike over 60% of our fellow passengers, WE were not Experienced Oceania Travelers (EOT’s). Once again, we had made a strategic planning error: if you eat breakfast two late you risk a) not being hungry for lunch and b) not getting a seat for the illustrated talk on the next port of call. Usually, one can amble in two minutes before the start but not on a DaS! Thanks to thoughtful friends, both EOT’s, we found seats waiting for us and did not have to resort to catching a rerun of the lecture on one of the ship’s TV stations (thoughtfully provided for those who arrived late or dozed off during the presentation).

The rest of the morning we spent browsing the ship’s boutique with its enticing display of overpriced jewelry, haute couture and local wares, trying not to scowl disapprovingly at the scattering of lethargic gamblers in the casino, collectively attempting the daily crossword puzzle, quiz and sudokus, and trying to work up an appetite for lunch. We were no more successful at the latter than at any of the previous activities and embarrassed ourselves by being the last two diners in the GDR. Actually, Harry was completely oblivious to the sea of deserted tables around us as he happily scooped out every speck of his daily chocolate ice cream coupe.

Any thought that the afternoon hours would be hard to fill was completely expelled when we contemplated the afternoon ‘program’:
1. pool side melodies
2. premium wine tasting
3. Spanish lessons (obviously a hold-over from the South American routes)
4. Mah Jongg
5. bridge – duplicate or social
6. SpaClub lecture on Happy Feet!
7. shuffleboard competition
8. bingo
9. martini tasting
10. outdoor golf putting competition
11. presentation on other Oceania cruises
12. afternoon tea (no more food, PLEASE!)
13. team trivia.

We eschewed all of the above and opted to read in the library comfortably surrounded by the rhythmic breathing of the dozen or so other dozing ‘readers.’ I completed the afternoon with a brisk two-mile walk (that’s two NAUTICAL miles) on the fitness track (I just ignore the name) on the 10th deck of the ship. Despite a brisk wind, the sun was shining brightly and I enjoyed my half hour planning how I could blog about how unscripted and unrushed today has been. Thank heavens I have three days to rest up before we ‘enjoy’ another relaxing DaS!

Shetland, Monday, August 9, 2010

What a contrast between the rustic green of Norway and the stark ruggedness of the Shetland Islands! All 100+ of them where no trees grow and birds, sheep and ponies are the most notable inhabitants.

The archipelago is the northernmost point in the British Isles equidistant from Bergen, Aberdeen and the Faroe Islands (Denmark) in the middle of the Viking Route (the name of this cruise). The three points of this triangle are two day’s sailing apart – if you happen to be in one of those long, shallow Viking vessels with the tall menacing ‘dragon’ at each end. They could be propelled by wind or oar, the latter the preferred mode for quick plundering forays to foreign shores where silence and speed were essential. Shetland is also the confluence of the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean.

Shetland is obviously British – drivers keep to the right, English with a distinct Scottish burr is the undisputed language and the people have a ruddy complexion and a good-natured, slightly crumpled style. But we note the absence of the Union Jack in favour of the Island’s newly adopted blue and white flag. It has the rectangular proportions of the Finnish flag but with the colours reversed. Street and town names reflect the area’s Norse roots and although Shetland has belonged to Scotland for several centuries, islanders feel a close affinity to the other Scandinavian countries and are proud of their Viking past.

Once again the weather is warmer and sunnier than predicted and there is no rain. But this succeeds only in making the bleak, sheep-strewn hills and mostly dull grey buildings of Shetland look only a little less drab. A few modern Swedish pre-fab houses with painted exteriors, scattered small gardens and patches of muted mauve heather add the only splashes of colour.

We pass up a visit to downtown Lerwick preferring a coach trip to David Robertson’s Shetland pony farm. This quiet, dignified islander greets us warmly and introduces us to his herd of tiny ponies and their three-month old foals. You can’t help but fall in love with these gentle creatures with their sturdy little legs, whispy beards and flowing manes. DNA testing can link them to no other equine breeds in the world. Their attractive colours and wide variety of combinations thereof along with their inherited affinity for children make them ideal pets the world over. When they replaced children in the coal mines in the 19th century their ‘work ethic’ and good nature won them the love and respect of the miners.

Back at the ship, Marion and Cynthia proudly modeled their Shetland purchases but we were warmed by our memories of fluttering long lashes and soft, warm pony noses.

Fjords of Norway

The Fjords of Norway, Sunday, August 7, 2010

We awoke this morning to mile after mile of craggy Norwegian hills gliding silently past our balcony. I had no idea that fjords could be so majestic: so wide, so high and, we were told, correspondingly so deep. And Sognefjord is Europe’s longest and deepest fjord. The hillsides are dotted with green, green trees and tiny parcels of bright pasture, as well as grey and white cliffs and rocks with the odd sure-footed sheep bleating and grazing on their mountainside breakfast. Every now and then an isolated farm or tiny hamlet (think Newfoundland outport meets Swiss mountain village) with no evidence of roads or any other means of connecting with the rest of the country drifts by. The air is deliciously pure and the glacier green water sparkles and ripples passively to the passing shore.

Our destination is the world famous Flaam (population 400) where tourists from all over the world flock to ride the 13 mile mountain railway. This feisty little train climbs through a series of cleverly engineered tunnels and tight, twisting turns to the top of the 2800 foot mountain. The downward trip is so steep that the train is equipped with five separate sets of brakes - each one capable of stopping it – just in case …

Despite predictions of cool temperatures and rainy weather, we enjoyed glorious blue skies and warm, welcoming sunshine. In a tiny, outdoor museum where there were no attendants, entrance fees or even postcards, we roamed at our leisure through a collection of abandoned ‘houses.’ They had all been relocated there and shared one common feature: they all sported roofs of vegetation – wild flowers, grasses, raspberries, and mixtures of all of the above. This natural insulation provided heat during the chilly winters and coolness during the summer and the added bonus of dessert if you were the lucky inhabitant of the raspberry dwelling.

Western Norway is a popular summer and winter holiday destination for the out-doorsy types. The main tourist accommodation takes the form of tiny, treeless campgrounds with only the most basic of amenities. Ironically, Norway’s ratio of land to population ratio is inordinately high but you would never guess this looking at the miniscule individual plots with space for one car and a tiny tent. Getting to know one’s camping neighbours’ intimate habits would seem not only inevitable but de rigueur.

We spent most of the day cruising the fjords viewing the passing scenery and cascading waterfalls from our balcony, the walking track on the 10 level of the ship, our breakfast, lunch and dinner tables, and just about anywhere else on the ship. How sad we will be to leave this peaceful, unassuming country.

Bergen, Norway

Apology and explanation:

OK so I am not a faithful blogger but I vow to mend my ways. Last Wednesday, August 4th, we flew to Copenhagen where we boarded the cruise ship Regatta of the Oceania Line along with friends Marion and Cynthia who share the stateroom beside us. I intend to write accounts of each day at sea but so far have been caught up in enjoying all of the luxuries that I am forced to endure daily – food, drink, pleasant company. So I will begin my account of the trip on day 4.


Saturday, August 7, 2010
Today we awoke in Bergen, Norway. From our personal, wharf-side balcony we gasped in excitement at the panoramic view of the houses of Bergen clinging to the lush green hillsides; they look as if they have been poured from a massive jug full of multicoloured Monopoly houses and hotels.

As we left the ship and strolled out of the harbour area, we were met by one of the ubiquitous, red Hop-on-hop-off busses that greet tourists in tourist cities all over the world. Ours efficiently negotiated its cumbersome way up and down the steep, narrow old city roads and byways filling our brains with dates, dimensions and relevant data soon to be discarded with our VISA stubs and used Kleenexes.

We learned that it rains an average of 245 days a year here but, lucky travelers that we are, it did not rain on us. We enjoyed warm breezes and sunny skies and were most thankful that we had not arrived here in the soggy year when Bergen endured 84 straight days of rain. We found this record even harder to believe as the entire town exuded such optimism and cheerfulness. With its steep cobble-stoned alleys and rows of gaily coloured brick, stucco and wooden edifices, Bergen seemed an amalgam of both old Quebec City and Newfoundland’s St. John’s. Every ledge, balcony and garden no matter how small bloomed with hydrangea, geraniums and roses. Oh so many roses!

As the tour continued, we obligingly ogled statues of Norwegians of whom we had never heard, gasped in awe at fountains and modern sculptures that would make the Beaubourg in Paris seem outdated, and scratched our heads trying to name one Norwegian composer OTHER than Grieg.

At stop 12 we disembarked to take the modern funicular to the top of Bergen's Mount Fløien. Harry’s wheelchair status gained us immediate entry to the elevator (along with babies in prams and dogs) and seats in the much coveted first car. We loved our view of the sprawling city and a photo op with the resident Troll.

Back again on terra firma, we headed straight for the lively waterfront market and breathed in the intoxicating smells of fresh crab, lobster, shrimp, and crayfish mingled with the delicate perfume of colourful sweet peas and other summer blossoms. Elegant Norwegian red/white and blue flags waved gracefully along the quays where townspeople, market vendors and tourists negotiated their crowded way with respectful courtesy, smiling nods and multilingual greetings. With disciplined determination, we made our bumpy way back to the ship in time for a casual lunch and a noisy discussion of our wonderful morning in Bergen.