Shetland, Monday, August 9, 2010

What a contrast between the rustic green of Norway and the stark ruggedness of the Shetland Islands! All 100+ of them where no trees grow and birds, sheep and ponies are the most notable inhabitants.

The archipelago is the northernmost point in the British Isles equidistant from Bergen, Aberdeen and the Faroe Islands (Denmark) in the middle of the Viking Route (the name of this cruise). The three points of this triangle are two day’s sailing apart – if you happen to be in one of those long, shallow Viking vessels with the tall menacing ‘dragon’ at each end. They could be propelled by wind or oar, the latter the preferred mode for quick plundering forays to foreign shores where silence and speed were essential. Shetland is also the confluence of the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean.

Shetland is obviously British – drivers keep to the right, English with a distinct Scottish burr is the undisputed language and the people have a ruddy complexion and a good-natured, slightly crumpled style. But we note the absence of the Union Jack in favour of the Island’s newly adopted blue and white flag. It has the rectangular proportions of the Finnish flag but with the colours reversed. Street and town names reflect the area’s Norse roots and although Shetland has belonged to Scotland for several centuries, islanders feel a close affinity to the other Scandinavian countries and are proud of their Viking past.

Once again the weather is warmer and sunnier than predicted and there is no rain. But this succeeds only in making the bleak, sheep-strewn hills and mostly dull grey buildings of Shetland look only a little less drab. A few modern Swedish pre-fab houses with painted exteriors, scattered small gardens and patches of muted mauve heather add the only splashes of colour.

We pass up a visit to downtown Lerwick preferring a coach trip to David Robertson’s Shetland pony farm. This quiet, dignified islander greets us warmly and introduces us to his herd of tiny ponies and their three-month old foals. You can’t help but fall in love with these gentle creatures with their sturdy little legs, whispy beards and flowing manes. DNA testing can link them to no other equine breeds in the world. Their attractive colours and wide variety of combinations thereof along with their inherited affinity for children make them ideal pets the world over. When they replaced children in the coal mines in the 19th century their ‘work ethic’ and good nature won them the love and respect of the miners.

Back at the ship, Marion and Cynthia proudly modeled their Shetland purchases but we were warmed by our memories of fluttering long lashes and soft, warm pony noses.